Frame Installation Instructions

Ensure there is no overhead or underground obstructions before starting to assemble frame.
Take a line down the side of the marquee and set out the base plates 3m apart, centre of base plate to centre of base plate. Then take a diagonal measurement to ensure the marquee will be square. See measurements. Bang the stakes in half way.
Lay out all the components as shown, and assemble each A-Frame starting at the base plate one side and working across to the other. The pin that goes through the leg and base plate should be facing outside the tent and secured with an R-clip. The eave knuckle should then be attached to the leg using a (wing nut) and bolt through the top hole, making sure that the end of the eave knuckle with the cut-out for the curtain rail is inserted into the leg. The end of the roof beam with 2 holes in it is then attached to the eave knuckle, and secured using a drop nose pin through the second hole up the beam.
The ridge knuckle is then fitted to the first roof beam and in turn, the second roof beam is fitted to that. The ridge knuckles on the first 2 A-frames will be secured using the roof wires. Undo the roof wires completely and pass the bolt on the end of the wire without the bottle screw through the holes in the ridge. Make sure that on these first two bays, the wires will be facing each other when the A-frames are upright.
Complete the A-frame by attaching the eave rail, leg, and base plates, using the same holes and bolts as the other side. Assemble the remaining A-frames the same way as the first two, but using drop nose pins at the ridge instead of the roof wires.
Once all the bays are assembled, lay the cross bracing out by the side of the first two bays with the wires attached. With two people lift the first bay and attach the scissors with bolts through the remaining two holes in the leg. Rest the frame on the ends of the cross braces. Then lift the second A-frame and bolt the legs into the cross braces. See attached. Take an eave rail, and insert the curved hook into the bracket on the side of the eave knuckle, lift the rail and drop the straight hook into the opposite eave knuckle bracket. (make sure if using bar tension eave rails, the channel is facing inwards) Repeat this process with the purlins using the purlin prop and fitting them into the brackets on the sides of the roof beams.
To assemble the remaining bays take two eave rails and insert the curved end into the eave knuckles on the bay that is standing, resting the straight hook on the floor. Lift the next A-frame and drop the eave rail into the other eave knuckle bracket. Insert the purlins as before. Assemble the remaining bays in the same way.
Attach a base plate to the bottom of the gable leg and bolt the top end through the holes in the roof beams. Adjust the bottom of the gable leg to ensure the leg is stable. For a gable fitted in the centre of a bay, adjust the bottom of the leg and pass it through the bracket on the ridge knuckle, and secure with an r-clip.
Once the frame is assembled, throw the two ropes with carbine hooks over the frame. One person should then attach the hooks to the d-rings, making sure the opening is facing upwards, and the bungee flange is on the inside of the roof. Feed the keder into the channel on either side of the roof and pull evenly and together until the roof is all the way over and there is an equal amount of valance hanging down on either side. Repeat this process for all roofs.
Now Take the roof wires, and loosen the bottle screws off all the way. Take the wire and attach it to the opposite roof beam on that side of the tent, to the hole nearest to the end of the beam. Make sure all wires are in before tightening the bottle screws. If the wires do not fit in, the tent is either not square or on uneven ground. To tension the roofs, take one end of the bungee cord, pass it over the eave rail, around the leg and hook it back onto itself. Do the same at the other end of the roof, and then pass the rest of the hooks over the eave rail and clip them onto the channel.
The Gable Triangles will slide into the top channel of the roof beams, making sure the lacing is facing inwards. They will then lace up and attach to the gable legs by straps. The edges of the roofs and gables can then be covered by the Velcro flaps.
The walls are fitted by sliding the bottom half followed by the top half of the wall into the leg channel through the cutout in the centre of the leg. The walls should have rings at the top, and a pocket on the outside at the bottom. Repeat this for the other half of the wall. Take the curtain rail and slide it through the rings at the top of one half of the wall and hook it into the slot on the leg, take the other end of the curtain rail and slide the rings of the other half of the wall and using the adjustable hook locate the curtain rail in the leg. Lace the walls up, and then slide the ground rail into the pocket at the bottom of the wall, securing it at either end using the base plate pins and R-clips. On the gable ends, corner brackets should be fitted to the base plates at each corner to locate the ground rail on the gable side. Once the walls have been fitted and you are happy with the position of the marquee, bang the stakes in to the ground